There’s nothing quite like paddling through calm waters or a fast-moving river on inflatable kayaks. However, even the toughest inflatables are vulnerable to punctures. Whether it’s a slow leak you’ve just noticed or a full tear from a sharp rock, knowing how to repair your kayak will save your next paddling expedition and add years to your boat’s life.
The good news? Repairing an inflatable kayak is often simpler than you’d think. It just takes the right approach, some basic gear, and a bit of patience. Below, we’ll take you through a step-by-step guide to patching up your inflatable kayak the right way.
We’ll also cover how to keep it free from mould and mildew. Let’s dive in.
How Kayaks Get Damaged in the First Place
Inflatable kayaks are tough by design, but they aren’t indestructible. External factors like jagged rocks, large sticks, or dog claws can all cause a sudden puncture. While some leaks are obvious, others take a bit of detective work to track down.
Of course, there’s also the way in which it’s being handled. If you’re dragging the kayak over rough terrain, over-inflating it, or leaving it in the sun too long, this will weaken the material and leave it more vulnerable to damage.
Step 1: Identify the Kayak Material
Before rushing to glue or patch, you’ll need to know what your kayak is made of. Most inflatable kayaks are built with materials like PVC, Hypalon, or Nitrilon. Why is this so important? Knowing the material is essential because adhesives and patch materials are not one-size-fits-all.
If your kayak came with a repair kit, check the label to see if it’s designed for the material your boat is made from. If you’re still unsure, refer to your owner’s manual or contact the manufacturer. Matching the glue and patch to your kayak’s material is the first step towards a long-lasting fix.
Using the wrong adhesive is often a quick ticket to further peeling or failed repairs. For example, PVC glue won’t bond with rubber, and vice versa. So, always take a moment to double-check your materials before starting.
Ideally undertake the repairs undercover or indoors in a well ventilated area, both out of the sun and away from any wind.
Step 2: Locate the Leak
Some punctures are painfully obvious. Others aren’t.
To find a sneaky leak, try the following steps:
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Inflate your kayak fully.
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Wipe a soapy rag or sponge over the surface.
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Watch closely for bubbles which will show where the air is escaping.
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Listen for any faint hissing noises.
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Once you’ve found the hole, mark it clearly with some masking tape, or a white board or erasable marker.
If you’re out on the water and don’t have soap, submerging the kayak in shallow water and checking for bubbles can also work in a pinch.
Step 3: Clean and Prepare the Surface
After you’ve located the leak, it’s time to prep the surface area.
Start by giving the area a good clean with mild soap and water. You don’t want any grime, oil, or residue getting in the way of a strong bond.
Next, dry the area with a clean cloth, then lightly sand the area around the hole using fine sandpaper. This will allow the adhesive to grip the surface better. Once sanded, wipe it down again to remove any dust. You’ll also want to clean the patch itself if you’ve cut it from a larger sheet.
The key here is patience. A smooth, clean, and dry surface is vital if you want your patch to hold up in the long run.
Step 4: Cut the Patch
Now it’s time to get your patch ready.
If it’s a small leak (like a pinhole), all you’re likely to need is a small patch. But don’t go too small. A good rule of thumb is to aim for a patch that’s roughly double the size of the hole.
Next, cut the patch into a circular or oval shape. This is because straighter edges are more likely to peel up over time. If the leak is larger than 75 mm, it could be worth adding both an inside and an outside patch to keep things nice and secure.
Step 5: Deflate the Kayak
Once everything is prepped, fully deflate your kayak. This allows the surface around the leak to lie flat, making it easier to lie the kayak flat, apply the patch evenly, and avoid wrinkles or lifting. Of course, the surface area of a deflated kayak will also be a little less firm and therefore, not as difficult to work with.
Step 6: Apply the Glue and Patch
At this point, your kayak should be deflated, and the patch will be ready to apply. Begin to use the glue as directed on the adhesive label. In most cases, you’ll apply a small amount of glue to both the kayak and the patch itself.
Let the glue sit for the recommended time until it becomes tacky. This is often just a few minutes, but check the instructions to be sure. Carefully place the patch over the hole and press down firmly, then smooth it from the centre out to push out any air bubbles. Sometimes, a roller or even a kitchen spoon can help to keep it pressed down.
However, definitely avoid pressing so hard that the glue seeps out completely, as this may actually weaken the bond. If you’ve used masking tape to mark the area, remove it once the patch is secured.
Step 7: Let It Cure
This is often the most overlooked part of kayak repairs: letting the patch cure properly.
Don’t rush it. Most glues require at least 24 hours to cure fully. During this time, it's best to keep the kayak flat and avoid handling it. If possible, place a small weight on top of the patch to keep consistent pressure during the curing process. Try to avoid repairs in very hot or very cold temperatures as this will affect the bonding process.
Skipping this step may lead to air escaping the next time you inflate.
Step 8: Inflate and Test
Once the glue has cured fully, it’s time for the moment of truth.
Inflate your kayak and run a soapy rag or sponge over the repaired area. If you don’t see any bubbles, you’re good to go. If you do, you might need to repeat the process with a fresh patch. If you continue to experience an issue, contact PaddleZone, the place of purchase or a professional repairer.

Keep your inflatable kayak ready for the water with the Shark iSUP Pump Brava Super Dual Action
Bonus Tip: Prevent Mould and Mildew While You’re At It
Since you’re already looking after your kayak, now’s a great time to tackle another common issue: mould and mildew.
These fungi tend to thrive in damp, dark places, which unfortunately makes inflatable kayaks a perfect home–especially if they’re still wet or damp when packed away.
With that in mind, here’s how to keep your kayak clean and fresh, even after repairs!
1. Rinse After Every Use
Saltwater, dirt, and organic matter can all speed up mould growth. This is why it's important to rinse your kayak thoroughly with fresh water after each paddle. Don’t forget to pay attention to the seams and corners too!
Avoid high-pressure hoses, as they might do more harm than good and actually damage the kayak’s surface. Essentially, a gentle spray is usually all it needs.
2. Dry Thoroughly
This might be the most important step. After rinsing, use a chamois or microfibre towel to wipe the kayak down after rinsing. Open all the valves to allow airflow into the chambers.
Don’t leave it exposed to any moisture. Instead, leave it in a shaded, well-ventilated area to air dry. If you’re short on time, do a quick wipe and unfold it again at home to let it finish drying properly.
3. Clean Periodically
As they say, prevention is the best cure. While reacting quickly to mould and mildew is critical, a full clean after every few outings goes a long way. Inflate the kayak and use a soft sponge with natural soap to clean the surface. Avoid strong chemicals as they will more than likely damage the surface material.
Rinse well and let it dry before applying UV protection.
4. Use UV Protectant
The sun is harsh on kayak material. After cleaning and drying, apply a UV protectant spray specifically made for PVC or Hypalon.
Wipe it down with a cloth and let it air dry before packing it away.
5. Store in a Cool, Dry Spot
Once your kayak is dry, store it in a cool and dry location. Avoid damp basements or places with poor ventilation.
Keep it loosely packed to allow some airflow. If you use a storage bag, leave it slightly open to stop moisture from getting trapped.
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